Dreams on the Sichuan Road

Xi'an to Chengdu, by high-speed rail, the strongest feeling: flash.



The train crosses the Qinling Mountains and Daba Mountains. Over 700 kilometers, 83% of it is a tunnel bridge. In the narrow passage, the train sped away. Time and space are all flattened. Long and far away, in the blink of an eye.



Glittering, all the way through. It takes two hours to arrive at Guangyuan.



When the car passes Guangyuan, there is no danger. A smooth river looks straight at Chengdu.



This is the famous transportation route in Chinese history - Shu Road.



It's difficult to get to the sky in Sichuan!



I often chew Li Bai's sigh: why is it difficult to go to the "blue sky"?



I must have felt it.



Although Li Bai's birthplace is still controversial, its place of growth, Jiangyou, is final. He moved with his father at the age of four, and lived and studied here until his youth left Sichuan. Jiangyou is located in the south of Guangyuan.



Guangyuan, formerly known as Lizhou, is located in the north of Sichuan Basin, known as Shumen. There are bus, Longmen, Micang and other mountains in the territory, with hundreds of miles around, cliffs and mountains. The danger of Jianmen pass, the suspension of Mingyue gorge, and the bend of Qipan pass are terrifying. "The sky is not full when the peaks go, and the withered pines hang upside down against the cliff. The flying rapids and waterfalls compete for noise, and the cliffs turn into stones and ravines." Moreover, at that time, the human population was cut off, and the deep mountains and dense forests used to be the kingdom of beasts, "avoid tigers in the morning and snakes in the evening; grind your teeth and suck blood, and kill people like hemp." So dangerous, how can humans pass?



The road is blocked on the ground. Raise your head and look at the sky. There are no clouds in Zhanzhan, green and green.



If there are white clouds in the sky, it is a grab, a ladder, or the help of immortals, but there is nothing in the blue sky, which makes it difficult for the poet to imagine and fall into despair.



The main part of "the difficulty of Shu Road" is to write about the difficulties and dangers of Guangyuan mountain area.



As we all know, Li Bai yearns for the imperial city. Its location is less than a thousand miles away from Xi'an, the northeast end of Shu Road. But his road to Xi'an is quite different. He chose the southeast, first to Chongqing, then to Hubei and Jiangsu, and then detoured north and West. This route is several times the length of Shu Road.



Sichuan Road is difficult, and Guangyuan is the hardest!



Li Bai was deterred by this road. Human beings have been struggling for a long time in climbing.



In the Shang and Zhou dynasties, the ancient Shu land was separated from the Central Plains by the Qinba Mountains. "Cancong and Yufu are at a loss about the founding of the country! You are 48000 years old and are not connected with Qin Sai." In the early spring and Autumn period, there was contact between the two places, and later the stories of stone cow dung gold and Wuding mountain were born one after another. "The earth fell, the mountains destroyed, the heroes died, and then the ladder and stone stack were linked." Wuding, should be five families or five tribes, seeking roads along the river, cutting mountains and roads, and building a dangerous stack. Therefore, a winding path thousands of miles above the cliff was opened.



This is the beginning of Shu Road.



In 316 BC, Qin general Sima CuO took advantage of this to take back the territory of Shu. After the unification of Qin Dynasty, the first emperor ordered the common people to plant pines and cypresses along the road. The official way of Qin and Shu was thus established.



At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Liu Bei group entered Sichuan from Jingzhou and occupied Chengdu. Zhugeliang surveyed the terrain and found the danger of Jianmen, so he built passes, rebuilt plank roads, and operated the northern expedition.



Since then, the Qin Ba front line has become a bridgehead for the confrontation between the north and the south. Shu Han and Cao Wei, Western and Eastern Jin, southern and Northern Dynasties, long-term war, resulting in years of desolation of Shu roads.



After the unification of Sui and Tang Dynasties, the government planted pines and cypresses again, gathering emeralds and accumulating green. This golden cow path gradually recovers. But because it is far away and dangerous, it is still regarded as a daunting road.



In 756 ad, Emperor Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty fled from Xi'an to Shu in a hurry due to the rebellion of an and Shi.



In the early winter of 759 ad, Du Fu entered Lizhou from Tonggu (now Chengxian County, Gansu Province) and climbed the Shu Road, which took a long time to Chengdu. There is a poem as evidence: "the winter is long, and the mountains are red in the late half of the day. There are many early flowers on the Sichuan roads, and there are rare stones in the rivers.". Early flowers, that is, the flowers of early spring, indicate that the journey is at least two months.



After the Ming Dynasty, gunpowder and iron ware were widely used to open mountains and gravel. Craftsmen cut slopes and shovel stones on the cliffs, opening up long roads to replace plank roads.



In 1935, Sichuan Shaanxi highway was built. As there was no choice but to follow the old road and uproot most of the pines and cypresses on both sides. The most dangerous place is Mingyue gorge. In order to reduce circling, the original Qiaodao was abandoned, and a nearly kilometer long tiger mouth C-shaped semi-circular open-air tunnel was dug on the cliff.



After the road is completed, the car still needs about ten days to drive.



After the founding of the people's Republic of China, a major transportation decision was to cut through the Southwest: while improving the quality of Sichuan Shaanxi highway, build Baoji Chengdu Railway. Due to the lack of advanced bridge and tunnel technology, the ancient line is still basically followed. Hundreds of thousands of people worked day and night, such as Sima attacking Shu and Zhuge northern expedition. Its feelings and scenery startle ghosts and gods.



In the 1980s and 1990s, I took the Baoji Chengdu Railway several times to and from Shu Road.



At that time, it took more than 20 hours from Xi'an to Chengdu. The strongest feeling: shaking.



Between mountains and valleys, the train twists and turns, looking at each other head and tail, like a python, crawling between the mountainside and the cave, making people feel long and distant in helplessness.



Guangyuan, deep in the mountains, is remote and poor, but it is also a general transportation hub and a material distribution center in northern Sichuan, southern Gansu and southern Shaanxi. In those years, there was a shortage of materials, but due to the shortage of transportation capacity, in order to avoid line congestion, the Sichuan aid train could not enter Guangyuan and could only stop at the small station in front of it every critical season. How to unload large quantities of materials? Only tens of thousands of young workers from all counties can be employed, hand and foot, head and shoulder



This is especially true of the Sichuan Shaanxi highway (National Highway 108) running parallel to the train. The truck is too long, too high and too heavy, and the mountain road is curved, narrow and hollow. Entering Guangyuan is the first stop in Sichuan - qipanguan. It's really a slap in the face. I'm pale at the smell. I have to hover over seven ridges before I can pass. "The danger is also the same. Why do people from afar come here?" Therefore, foreign vehicles often employ local drivers. Even so, there are still frequent traffic jams, often staying for three or five days, with a congestion of ten kilometers.



In the billowing smoke and dust, the Jianmen pass, Mingyue gorge, Qianfo cliff and huangze temple on both sides of the highway and railway were in a state of anxiety and frowning.



It is obvious from the map that Guangyuan is located in the center of Xi'an and Chengdu. However, there are mountains around her, like a tightly wrapped zongzi, like a walnut with a hard shell.



Entering the 20th century, this ancient Shu Road is also quietly upgrading.



After the Wenchuan earthquake in 2008, post disaster reconstruction. The traditional Sichuan Shaanxi highway finally avoided the old base, gave up circling and crossed the mountain.



In 2013, Xicheng Expressway opened to traffic in a new way. The journey between the two places was shortened to eight hours, and the congestion problem was alleviated.



The train is still slow. By the end of 2017, the journey of Baoji Chengdu Railway was still 19 hours.



However, China's high-speed rail technology has made a comprehensive breakthrough, accompanied by bridge and tunnel technology. Made in China and created in China have overcome many world problems. All changes and innovations are being carried out in detail but vigorously.



In December 2017, the xi'an-chengdu high-speed railway, which Chinese people have been calling for, was officially opened.



New line, new technology. Thousands of mountains, roaring open!



The traditional Shu Road, suddenly relaxed, has become the eternal memory and witness of China's transportation and the unique charm and beauty of human civilization.



At this time, looking back and looking carefully, everything turned out to be so authentic and antique.



Guangyuan, a village girl raised in the mountains, unveiled her veil like a beautiful girl.



Jianmen pass, the gate of Shu, with mountains stacked one after another, like waves of solidified and petrified waves, and like rows of towering screens, forming a natural city wall, "the flying of yellow cranes is not enough, and apes want to climb with sorrow". The only gap is open, like a door, like a mouth. The mountains on both sides are trembling, dangerous as swords. When one man is in charge, ten thousand men cannot open it; Strong and dangerous, strange and dangerous. However, in the current peaceful world, it is just a senior landmark, a box of bright scenery.



Mingyue gorge is about 3000 meters long, less than 100 meters wide, and the valley is more than 1000 meters deep. The cliffs on both sides stand upright, and the waves in the gorge are rough. On such a steep cliff, how difficult is it to drill holes and build wooden plank roads? Such as gecko, spider, hammer, steel rod, sparks splashing, a little negligence, buried in the abyss. How many holes do you need for the 3000 meter plank road.



There is no doubt that here is a magnificent, thrilling and classic ancient plank road remains in China.



Cuiyunlang, who thought of such a poetic name? Nearly 10000 pines of Han and Tang Dynasties are old and frail, but they have towering twigs and lush green. We walked quietly in the shade, green as rain, fragrance wet clothes. That is Li Bai's breath, that is the fragrance of Wu Tan, blowing every eyelash of you and moistening every inch of your skin.



In those days, Deng AI could not close the Jianmen by force, so he sneaked around the Yinping path of the Tangjiahe River and destroyed Shu at one stroke. Today, the Tangjiahe area is roughly the primitive world, with pandas, Takins, Sichuan golden monkeys and other rare species. Many animals live here naturally, eating fresh fruits and drinking mountain springs. The cheetah captured a yellow sheep and drank blood from its hair; Agkistrodon halys arrests a hare and swallows it; Snub nosed monkeys are most greedy for the newly ripe wild plum. They chew carefully and swallow slowly, and their eyebrows flutter



Bailong River is embraced by Jialing River on the south side of Zhaohua ancient city. The landscape structure here is like a natural Tai Chi diagram, round and harmonious, graceful and magnificent. Standing high, it's clear at a glance. Zhaohua ancient city is known as the second capital of Shu.



In June, 2018, I took the Xicheng high-speed railway again to Guangyuan.



The high-speed railway has just been opened, with a speed of only 250 kilometers per hour. Soon, we will have to speed up and encrypt. Between the two cities, public transportation will be realized. The time will be shortened to about two and a half hours.



A silvery white, the peaks flashed. Clearly and secretly, cheering. The mountains, which have been sleeping for hundreds of millions of years, are like heroes, like Wuding, like poets, like young men and women, dancing and singing.



Indeed, Guangyuan benefited most from the opening of xi'an-chengdu high-speed railway. This peerless beauty is finally out of the mountain and married



I suddenly think of Li Bai.



A thousand years of spring and autumn, flashed by. At this time, Taibai may sit on the clouds in the blue sky and laugh. Laughter, like sunshine, is in full bloom all over the sky.



Yes, he can finally travel easily and quickly to and from Shu Road.



And Qinling Mountains, Daba Mountain, Longmen Mountain, Micang mountain, as well as Jianmen pass, Mingyue gorge, Cuiyun corridor, huangze temple, qipanguan, Tangjiahe, all his beautiful shadows, whirling white clouds, green patches, exuberance everywhere, are his figure, his laughter, his comfort, and even his new poems!



Perhaps at this time, Li Bai is walking on the streets of Guangyuan.



In fact, every dreamer and forerunner on the Shu Road is a poet! (Li Chunlei)

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